The Project Lady: DIY Tutorial for Building an 'X' Entryway Table

This was a rewarding project for me and I'm happy to share it with you so you can make your own! The lumber only cost $15 and it was finished in a day!

In my search to find an entryway table that required minimal lumber (I didn't have much on hand and wanted a quick project) I came across a few tables that I got inspiration from.

If it weren't for the 20-degree angles (or 70-degrees off square) on the table legs this project would be done in a pinch... and very well suited for a beginner. I must warn that the angles do make it awkward and hard to cut on a miter saw (mine only cut up to 50-degrees)... so please consider how you can cut safely by making a jig (here's a good one) to keep your board steady and in place or use another means of cutting (bandsaw or handsaw, perhaps).

Another option would be cutting 45-degree angles on the legs and make it simple and straight forward. The diagram above shows what that might look like.

Something to consider: For this project I decided to join the horizontal-top boards together using biscuits and glue rather than making a bunch of pocketholes all over (even though they'd be on the underside I wanted to avoid the need I have to plug them). If you go the biscuit+glue joining route you need to take extra care of cleaning the glue off your boards if you are staining (stain doesn't penetrate glue and you'll end up with very obvious splotches).

Wood Clamps

I wasn't planning on blogging about this project so I didn't take pictures of the assembly process - I hope my diagrams will suffice!

My 2x4's weren't very smooth/even on the edges so I decided to rip them down and square them up a bit on my table saw for a finished width of 3-1/4" (about 1/8" on each side). This isn't necessary so if you prefer to forgo this step it doesn't affect the cut list or assembly other than for the 'top-side' boards which would be 17.5" rather than 16.5".

Arrange 'top' boards how you'd like them once joined - mark with a * or something so you know what is the upside. On what will be the backside, drill pocketholes on the 5 'top' boards and the 'leg brace' as shown in diagram. If using biscuit joinery, make grooves to accept biscuits (or do pocket holes instead).

If using biscuits, ensure you are using enough glue for a solid joint but not so much that it's dripping. Butter both sides of wood/biscuits that are to be joined. Clamp 5 'top' pieces together with at least 4 clamps. Allow to dry and attach 'top-sides' with pockethole screws.

Print and cutout the template for the 'leg angles'. Use this to mark on all 8 of your boards. The diagram above shows how your 15" board will be cut down to fit against the 'leg-center' and 'leg-stretcher'.

Cut the blue angle first on all boards. TIP: save the cut-off pieces of these cuts to assist with clamping later on.

Next, set your miter to cut the small orange angle - if you have an angle finder to transfer the angle from the template to the blade that would be best, otherwise do your best to line the blade up with the marking on your wood.

Once you have the position of your first piece set, use a pencil to mark the corner/edges of your board on the base of your miter to easily line up the next 7 boards.

Leave your miter angle the same for cutting the other end of your boards... simply slide them across to the other side of your blade and cut along the last mark.

Do a test fit to ensure all board for the legs fit together nicely. and make any necessary changes. Sand all your boards and round edges/corners to your liking - I sanded from 100 to 180 grit.

Use your cut-off pieces I mentioned saving previously to create a flat surface in the "valley" of the 'x' for clamping. Wipe off excess glue and leave to dry. TIP: although you aren't gluing the 'leg stretchers' in this step, it is best to clamp them in place to ensure all the pieces will glue & set in the correct place (i.e straight across the top/bottom ends).

Pre-drill and screw in your 2-1/2" wood screws to attach the 4 stretchers to the top & bottom of the leg 'x' pieces. I did 2 screws through the angled pieces and 1 through the center.

Center and clamp the 'leg brace' to each 'x' (I used a long pipe clamp). Use 4 pockethole screws to attach.

Have the table top laying on the ground with the top-side (the one you'll see) against the floor. Center your legs over the table top (lucky you, this should cover all the pocketholes that were drilled for attaching the top-sides)!

Pre-drill and drill 2-1/2" wood screws through the end of each 'leg stretcher' into the table top. I realize this isn't a conventional way of attaching boards that will swell in opposing directions but I figured it was an inexpensive/fast build project and I would roll with it...

Do a final sanding if you wish and apply your wood finish of choice. I personally had some Minwax Dark Walnut Stain on hand and used that (after using a wood conditioner first). Every time I use Minwax I'm surprised at how stinky it is... for DAYS! As soon as I run out of my Minwax products I'm going to try and stay with General Finishes Stains - so much better in so many ways!

Our previous entryway table was a sewing cabinet I refinished but it felt too small and out of place!

Remember how ugly the lamp used to be? It was only $15 (so exciting)! The blue & white plate was a recent score at $1.50... and I just brought the mirror home a few days ago for $10 (the corners of the molding were all coming apart with 1/4" gaps but there's nothing a little glue won't fix)!

Glue and clamping MAY have been strong enough but I decided to drill holes through the corners to accept some dowels. Once dry I cut the dowels flush and sanded the frame...