1.09.2015

Tutorial for Sewing Curved Welt Pocket Design

If you've ever attempted to make a welt pocket they can be quite challenging.  When I decided to change it up a bit and do something that looked more girlie for my bags I was surprised how easy it actually was!

With this tutorial you will be guided step-by-step to sew a pocket of your own!

Project Time:
30 minutes to 1 hour

Shopping Lists:
*scraps of medium to heavy-weight fabric for outside (non-stretch)
*scraps of light to medium-weight fabric for pocket lining (non-stretch)
scrap of fusible interfacing
matching thread
black writing pen
fabric marker/chalk

*Feel free to mix & match different colors of fabrics depending on what you want your pocket to look like.  In the tutorial I used different colors of fabric so you can better see what pieces are which.  If you have a big bold pattern like the chevron purse you may want to do a solid color for the welts because it would be nearly impossible to match the patterns for all the pieces.

Download & Print Pattern:
SMALL pocket, HERE (approximately 5"-wide)
LARGE pocket, HERE (approximately 9"-wide) <--used in tutorial

-CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS-

Out of heavy to medium-weight fabric cut:
-pocket back (1 piece)
-pocket welts (4 pieces)
-large piece for the exterior (about 3" bigger on all sides of 'pocket bag' piece)

Out of medium to light-weight fabric cut:
-pocket bag (2 pieces)

Out of fusible interfacing cut:
-rectangle 2" bigger on all sides of 'pocket opening' piece (1 pieces)


-SEWING INSTRUCTIONS-
Pin fusible interfacing to RIGHT side of large exterior piece (with fusible side UP) about 1" from top edge.  Trace 'pocket opening' over fusible interfacing.

 Stitch over pen markings with a 2.5 length stitch.

 Cut down the center of stitching and into each of the corners (be sure not to clip your stitching!)

 Cut out the bulk from the center so you have about 1/4" left, and clip into the seam every 1/2-1" for ease of turning.

 Turn the edges of your interfacing through the opening and to the back side.  Carefully iron interfacing down so that the stitched opening is crisp and holds the correct shape.

 Turn your piece back over and this is what it should look like from the front side.

 With right sides together, sew both pairs of pocket welts together along longest edge with a 1/4" seam.  Clip seam for ease of turning.

 Turn welts right side out and press flat with iron.

 Place welts under pocket opening and arrange until they look good.

 Gently pin the welts together without moving (don't pin the top layer of the top welt).

 With the top layer free of the top welt, you can open and sew just inside the seam allowance where your welts overlap.

 This is what it looks like from the back side.

 Use your 'pocket back' piece and trace the bottom edge along the bottom edge of your welts (on back sides) using a fabric marker or chalk.

Pin the right side of a 'pocket bag' piece along the marked edge of your welts.  To do this, first clip 1/4" into the dip in the center of the pocket bag and match and pin that to the dip marking of your welts.  Manipulate (without stretching/pulling) the rest of the pocket bag piece to follow the marked line and pin as you go.

Sew the pieces together by following along the marked edge/edge of pocket bag with a 1/4" seam.  Make sure you back stitch when you get to the center on each side of the clipped area.

 This is what it should look like when you're done.

 Flip pocket bag down and iron flat.

 With wrong sides together, pin welts + pocket bag on the backside of your opening.

 Top-stitch 1/8" from opening's edge across bottom edge, making sure to backstitch on both ends.

 Sew the other 'pocket bag' to 'pocket back' with right sides together, matching centers and edges with a 1/4" seam.  Flip down and iron just as before.

 Center pocket back with the welts so the "dips" match.

 Pin the back on from the top side.

Top-stitch around the rest of the opening 1/8" just as before, making sure to backstitch.

 This is what your pocket now looks like from the back side... all you have to do now is sew the pocket bag pieces together on the sides and bottom!  Do this by first marking where to sew with a fabric marker/chalk and a ruler.  Pin pocket bag layers together.

 Sew over your marks, overlapping with the top-stitching from the front by 1/4".  To sew this you'll need to fold over the top layer (where the opening is) back so you don't sew it.

 Finish off by trimming the pocket back to reduce any extra bulk.

FINISHED!!

11.15.2014

Safety Razors are for Girls, Too!

This isn't my normal kind of post but I have to tell everyone what they're missing out on!  Plus, I'm constantly reminded of how things in our grandparents days were made better and to last.  Shaving is no exception!

I lost my cartridge razor so I went online to search
 "deals on razors" and came across a sale on slickdeals.net for a double-edged safety razor.  I read about them a few years before and debated whether to get my husband one for a gift but this time I looked into if girls were using them.  I became excited after reading about them, especially how cheap the blades were!  I did hours and hours of research, reading reviews, looking at different companies, looking at YouTube videos, etc. and knew I was going to get one for ME!  There are videos of women on YouTube showing how they shave their legs with a safety razor and that gave me confidence.  After all, shaving isn't just for men!

I'll let you do your own research on double-edged safety razors/wet-shaving (or whatever you want to call it), but I found a good article on today.com that pretty much sums up everything you need to know.  Here's just a little bit of that article:


"{...proper shaving has become a lost art. Shaving is one of those glorious male [female] traditions that used to be passed down from father [mother] to son [daughter], but somewhere along the line, when shaving became more about cheap, disposable razors than a nice, precision-made metal tool in your hand, it became a brainless routine to rush through in the morning without even thinking about it. A dull disposable razor dragged across a layer of foam or gel on your cheeks [legs and/or armpits] is a step backward from the past, not an improvement. Now that men [women] of all ages are paying more attention to their appearance, it’s no wonder that the hottest trend right now in male [female] grooming is a return to the traditional wet shave – and millions of men [women] have been shocked to discover that the “old fashioned” method of shaving they thought went out with the Hula Hoop is actually the best quality shave you can get.


CAUTION: if you’ve been shaving with a disposable razor or one of the modern multi-blade cartridge systems like the Mach3, be aware that switching to a single-blade DE (double-edge) will require that you un-learn all the bad habits that modern razors are designed to let sleepy, lazy guys get away with. Mainly, that means slower, more careful strokes, and guiding the razor’s head over your skin WITHOUT PRESSING DOWN.}"


I first looked for shaving kits on Amazon and eBay.  I wasn't impressed with what you got for the price.  I didn't want a brush/razor stand where the finish would peel off, or a teeny-tiny chrome soap bowl, or a fancy-pants $50+ razor or a cheap badger brush.  For a razor, brush, bowl & stand the cheapest set was around $70 and that didn't include any soap or blades.  The sets that looked appealing to me (which still didn't include soaps/blades) were $150+.  I decided I was going to buy everything separate to make sure I was getting what I wanted, that it had good reviews and was a good price.


I wanted to share with you what I ended up buying and give you a few different options incase you're like me and want quality without spending too much.



What I ended up getting:

SAFETY RAZORS
 There are SO many razors out there!  New vs. old, short vs. long handle, 3-piece vs. butterfly, $5 vs. $99+ and the list goes on!  I spent most of my time trying to find the perfect razor for me but I really had NO clue what I wanted or what features I'd prefer.

I ended up going with a vintage 1965 Gillette "starburst" razor off eBay (top left) and a new Utopia brand from Amazon (bottom right).

I got the vintage Gillette because I saw a lot of them and they seemed popular amongst the ladies, they look feminine and you can get them for under $15... I paid $20 including shipping and mine looks practically new.

I got the Utopia because it was $14.99 shipped, it was gold which I LOVED and it has awesome reviews!  People loved how heavy-weight it is and well made.  The only complaint was that the blade doesn't sit perfectly parallel to the top of the razor unless you pay a lot of attention when putting it in before you tighten (not a deal-breaker for me).

 Bottom view.  The Utopia is almost 2 times heavier than the Gillette which is kind of nice because you can let the razor do the work for you.

The vintage Gillette is a butterfly open-type and is really easy to load/unload a blade by simply turning the 'knot' at the end of the handle.  The new Utopia is a 3-piece and slightly more awkward to change the blade, especially because of the blade alignment issue.. but it really does take just 30 seconds longer to change the blade (about every 1-2 weeks).

BRUSHES
There's so many types of brushes you can buy!  Badger, boar, synthetic... then there's what size and quality!  I read most everywhere that Badger hair is the best.  I ordered mine from aceshaving on eBay and got a small brush with mixed badger hair for $6.99 and a stand for $1.99 and a larger silvertip badger brush with a 25mm knot for $29 - plus about $10 shipping for all from China.  The silvertip is nicer than the mixed badger hair and I like the larger size for my legs.  I can't imagine someone using the cheaper-mixed badger hair on their face.. it's so coarse!

Before I spent money on a brush I wanted to know if it was REALLY necessary or if it was just part of the tradition.  Turns out the brush exfoliates your skin and removes dry skin so you get a closer shave, pulls your hair up so it's not laying down and creates a nice lather.

SHAVING SOAP/GEL
There are countless options for soaps & gels!  I ended up getting a well-known brand, Proraso, that had good reviews and was under $10 shipped on Amazon.  I also got the Arko shaving soap stick for under $3 shipped on Amazon.  Then there's you're typical shaving gel you can buy anywhere.  The Proraso has the best lather of all of these.  I first lather it in the container it comes in with my brush then do the bowl-lather method which gets it a lot fluffier and it will go further.  The Arko stick you can rub right onto your wet skin then use the brush to go over it a bunch of times to create your lather.  The gel can be applied right to the center of your wet brush and you can use your hand to do the hand-lather technique, however, I couldn't get much of a lather with the gel.  People say the Proraso and Arko will last easily  up to 6 months even with frequent use (we shall see)!

PRE-SHAVE
I got Proraso pre-shave because it was well-known and also had good reviews.  It cost about $11 on Amazon.  A pre-shave is recommended because it adds an extra layer of protection between the blade and your skin and helps the razor glide more easily.  I'm actually not too impressed with this pre-shave and will make my own when I run out (easy recipes online).

BLADES
I read that people said different blades are better for different hair/skin types.  People with coarse hair will like a different blade than someone who has fine hair.  Someone who has sensitive skin will prefer something different than someone with tough skin.  The blades are machined with different angles of sharpness and made with different metals.  I got a sample pack to find my blade of choice before I order a pack of 100 blades.  This sample pack of 30 blades was on Amazon for around $15 but you can buy 100 of the same blade for around $13!

Putting it together:

Here's a few "kits" you could put together, depending on how much you want to spend.  I believe all these products are just as good (if not better) as the kits you'd spend $70-$150 on.  You might have to wait up to 2 weeks for everything to be shipped (like the brushes from China). 

Utopia safety razor (comes with 10 blades) $15
Total =$35 with shipping

With $35 you can test out wet shaving and see if you like it!  If you want to go even cheaper you could just buy the razor and use regular shaving creme from the can (but you won't get as good of results).



Gillette "starburst" razor $20 (about)
Large badger brush $35
Proraso soap $10
Proraso pre-shave $11
Bowl (thrift store find) $1
Total =$77 with shipping

 With $77 (+cost of blades of choice) you can have everything you need to have a very nice shave with very nice products.  A brush/razor stand is something you could add later if you feel it's necessary for another $20.


What is my opinion of this style of shaving you might ask?


It takes a bit longer to shave and there's a few more products to juggle, BUT my legs don't have red spots around every hair follicle anymore (something I've been annoyed with as long as I can remember and thought it was normal!) AND it will be cheaper in the long run! ...no more spending $1-$2 per cartridge blade (DE blades go for about 10 to 20 cents each)!

I totally recommend wet shaving... even for busy moms like me!

11.11.2014

Pegboard Tool Storage Cabinet Project

I had tools scattered around the house and it was driving me crazy!  I looked online for peg storage systems and came upon this downloadable building plan for a tool cabinet system (shop-in-a-box) on Amazon.
I love that it has 4 doors which have pegboards on both side so you can really maximize it's usefulness.  My all-time favorite feature of this cabinet are the shelves in the back and the bins for small things.

I compared lumber at Home Depot, Lowe's and our local lumber yard, Fingerlie and I decided to get most of my wood at Fingerlie because it was much better quality.  Harbor Freight had the best price for the peg hooks (you'll need more than you think)!

I cut all the pieces in my woodshop class (I was rushing and it still took 4 hours)...
...then I brought it home and made a HUGE mess of my living room!

(sample page from instructions)


 It took me about 5 hours to get everything assembled, sanded and hinges attached!

 I didn't want to drill into the cement wall to attach the mounting board, so I screwed a wide board down from the rafters in the ceiling against the wall to attach it there.

 The worst part was figuring out where to put all my crazy tools!  One thing I should note is that the inside doors feel a bit awkward to get behind because they don't open as much as you'd expect.

The small shelves are adjustable and the little bins fit perfectly inside.  The hardboard I used wasn't quite the specified 1/4" so I doubled it up.  I did 5 bins and there's enough room for 2 more!

 I bought some magnetic strips to stick little odds and ends to (you'll just want to make sure both sides of pegboard in the door match up enough to stick a few bolts through).

 The whole cabinet only sticks off the wall about 12-1/2" which is amazing considering all it can hold!  IMPORTANT: I overlooked the overall space I would need for this cabinet because you need to consider the space the large doors will need to open all the way which is SIXTY-INCHES!!  I originally planned to hang this cabinet at the top of our basement stairs to keep the tools super handy, however, there just wasn't enough room.

Check out the other tool system I made, here.

11.08.2014

Pattern Review - Ainsley Baby Boot 670

I saw this pattern on ithinksew.com and couldn't get over how adorable these strappy boots are.  I bought the pattern right away for under $4 and got to work.

(my version - size 1)

SKILL LEVEL:  A beginner can totally make these with a little patience.

THINGS TO KNOW: I followed the seam allowance of 1/4" but the outer shell and lining pieces didn't match up very well on the very top edge when I went to sew them together in the last step... you'll probably want to make your seam allowance that attaches the buckles to the outer shell a little wider so it will be the same size as the lining.  The only thing I don't like about this pattern is how the sole is super wide.  I did the smallest size (size 1) and the front of the boot looks like a duck-bill because it's so wide... newborns have really narrow feet and I will definitely change it to be much more narrow if I make these again.

TIPS: The straps are a little tedious to make with all the ironing and top-stitching... take your time on these since they're the first thing people will see!  I would use a thicker fabric for the sole (like a suede or leather) because they feel/look flimsy.  I decided to just do the same fabric as the whole boot for my first pair because it was for a newborn and I wasn't worrying about the sole getting worn-out from being walked-in :)

WHAT I DID DIFFERENTLY:  The only thing I did differently was how I sewed the velcro onto the straps (see last picture).  I ironed them just like the instructions said to but I sewed the velcro pieces on the straps as I was sewing the top-stitching around the edges.  This not only cuts down on time and frustration of going around all 4 edges, but it looks nicer in my opinion.  Although only 2 sides are sewn, it will be more durable in the long-run because you don't have backstitching all over the place from sewing them on individually (the threads usually come undone over time from getting pulled on with the velcro).

All-in-all I'm pretty happy with these little boots.  If they were more narrow on the sole and I the sole was thicker I'd be thrilled.  I can't wait to find a baby to try them on!