Farmhouse Style Queen Headboard

While visiting my family in Utah my mom was trying to decide how to make the guest room look better.  I immediately told her "I'll make you a headboard!"  I've had my eye on the farmhouse style bed plan from the Ana White website and was excited to try it out.  I didn't make the whole bed frame, plus I made a few tweaks of my own and will highlight them below.  For the wood I spent about $65 and another $40 for Stain and Polyurethane.

**This plan is for a QUEEN headboard**

Shopping List:
(1) 4x4x8' post
(4) 1x6x8' tongue & groove boards
(4) 1x4x8'
(1) 2x4x8'
(1) 2x6x8'
3/4"-diamater dowel
(28) 2" Screws
(48) 1-1/4" Finish Nails
Wood Glue and Brush
Wood Finishing Products of Choosing

Miter Saw
Sander & Various Grit Papers
Drill (+ Bits) & Impact Driver
Socket (fits lag bolts)
Flush Cutting Saw
Rags & Fine-Bristled Brush

Cut List:
(2) 4x4 @ 48" (6" shorter than plan) - POSTS
(12) 1x6 TG @ 30" - PANEL BOARDS
(4) 1x4 @ 60" - PANEL TRIM
(1) 2x4 @ 67" (cut last) - TOP OF PANEL/POSTS
(1) 2x6 @ 69" (cut last) - TOP OF HEADBOARD

After cutting your wood, sand everything with 100, 120 & 150 grit paper. Layout your TG boards to create your panel.  Once they are together, each board has a finished measurement of 5" wide.  You will need to cut the tongue off the last board using a table saw.

 I used glue and finish nails to attach the trim to the top and bottom of the panel boards.  I did 2 nails in each TG board end.  TIP: Use a square to make sure you are putting the trim square with the panel!

Next, flip panel over and use 2" screws (pre-drill holes) to attach the other trim boards on the top and bottom (make sure they match up with the trim pieces on the other side).

I used scrap 1" board pieces to put under the sides of my panel to raise it up so it is centered with the posts.  Once it's centered and the post is where it needs to be, mark where to screw your lag bolts (through the post and into the panel).  I did a lag bolt through the top and bottom of panel and the center for a total of 6.  I first drilled out the recessed hole needed for the lag head with the forstner bit (about 3/4" deep) and then used a 1/4" bit in the center for the rest of the lag screw.  To get through the 4x4 post and part of the panel you will need a LONG 1/4" bit!  Use your impact driver with a socket attachment to drill the bolts in.

Once your posts are attached it's time to measure the top for the 2x4 and 2x6!  You want the 2x4 to be an exact measurement of the top and the 2x6 to be 2" longer.  Once they're cut sand with 100, 120 & 150 grit papers.  Clamp 2x4 in place and use a few 2" screws to hold in place.  Center 2x6 over the top and clamp in place.  Do the same process with the forstner bit & 1/4" bit like you did for the posts to attach the 2x6.  I did 4 lag bolts total for the top.  Use your impact driver with a socket attachment to drill the bolts in.

 Next cut 10 2" long pieces from your dowel.  To plug your holes, use a small brush with glue to butter the holes and end of dowel.  Tap in place; let dry.

While you're waiting for your plugs to dry you can work on the blocks for attaching your bed frame!  To do this, measure the distance from the floor to the top & bottom of the metal bracket on your bed frame.  You'll want to center your 8" wood block on your post according to your measurements.  For instance, the metal frame bracket measured 5" from the bottom edge to the floor and 10" from the top edge to the bottom floor.  That means I measured 8-1/2" up from the bottom of my posts and centered my 8" blocks over that.  TIP: You'll want your blocks to be flush with the front side of your posts (my bed frame metal brackets overlapped the posts and brackets).  I used the same process with the forstner bit, 1/4" bit and lag bolts to attach the blocks... using 2 bolts on each block.  I didn't plug the holes incase we needed to move the blocks for whatever reason.

 Now that your plugs are dry you can use a flush cutting saw to cut them away and sand smooth!

Remove dust to prepare for finishing!

Because my posts were Douglas Fur and the rest pine, I was worried about the woods taking the stain differently and first did a coat of seal-a-cell.  However, looking back I think I could have saved $20 and gone without this step.  Since the General Finishes Gel Stain mostly sits on the surface without penetrating the wood it probably would have turned out just fine!

This is the product I used.

 Here's the first coat...

 ...and here's the second coat.

I left it to dry until the next day and did 2 coats of Polycrylic (sanding with 320 grit in between coats).

 We held the headboard up to the metal bedframe and marked 2 spots on each bracket where we could attach bolts.  We drilled holes through the wooden blocks and used bolts/nuts to secure.

 It adds so much warmth & character to the room!  I love it!


DIY Tutorial on Making a Wooden Checkerboard


Your options are endless when it comes to making your own board (check samples at bottom).  In these instructions you will need to choose what size board you want to make, how you're going to finish your board (i.e. paint, stain, keep natural), if you want an embellishment and if you want to use vinyl squares or paint your own on.

Dimensions: Before you can do anything, decide if you want a small board (12"w x 16.5"t) or a large board (16"w x 21.5"t).  The small board has 1" checker pieces and the large has 1.5" pieces.

1) Basic Materials Needed:

-Paint Grade Panel* (sm- 12" x 36"; lg- 16" x 48")
-24 Wooden "Wheels" (sm- 1"; lg- 1.5")
-Leather Cord (at least 30" long)
-Paint and/or Stain (recommend wearing gloves)

*These panels are $5-9 @ Lowe's and you can make 2 boards

out of each one!  Best of all they're already the width you need!

2) Choose a Design to Add (optional):

-Wood Applique (need wood glue)
-Wood-burned Design (need wood-burner tool, xylene + blender marker, laser printer, downlaodable designs*.. sm & lg)
-Painted Design (not shown) - (need paints & brushes)

*Important: designs MUST be printed on a laser printer for transferring to wood.

If you don't have laser, print at home and COPY page with a laser copier.

3) Choose Checker Squares:

-Vinyl (purchase HERE)
-Paint Your Own (download template.. sm & lg; need Xacto knife, craft paint & sponge)

4) Tools Needed:

-Saw (or have Lumber Shop cut when you buy)
-Sand Paper (various grits)
-Orbital Sander (recommended)
-Drill with 1/4" Bit
-Painters Tape
-Rags (for Stain) & Fine Brush (for Clearcoat)

General Instructions:
I advise you to read through entire plan before beginning. Take precautions to work safely and in a ventilated area when working with chemicals.

Gather all supplies & tools needed from sections 1) through 4).  Remember you can make this project as simple or fancy as you'd like!

Print out all necessary downloads from sections 2) & 3).  Piece & tape pages together as necessary.


-Part 1- 


For small board, cut your 12"w panel to 16.5"; for large board: cut your 16"w panel to 21.5".

Round corners with sander as much as you'd like; sand all surfaces with 100, 120 & 150 grit papers.  Wipe off dust.


-Part 2- 


  If using a wood applique, mark placement by marking center of board at least 1.5" down from the top edge.

  Brush wood glue over back side of applique and place over center mark.  Hold in place with painters tape and use wood clamps or a heavy object to press down.  Let dry for a few hours.

  If wood-burning your design, print using a laser printer.  Cut design out and center and place face-down against board. Tape in place.

  Use your blender marker dipped in xylene to wet the back or your design.  Press hard and keep re-dipping marker to make sure image transfers.  I even do a second pass just to make sure.

 You can pull the paper off immediately after transferring.  Let xylene dry off wood for a few hours before proceeding.

Make sure your wood burning tool is hot and get to work burning your image.  It takes a little patience!


-Part 3- 


Stain or paint your board according to manufacturers directions.

Stain or paint 12 of your "wheels".

For General Finishes brand I always do 2 coats.

Let dry completely and sand lightly with 220 or 320 grit paper.


-Part 4- 


If using vinyl, peel squares from the backing and press over board.  Make sure it's centered on your board!

Scrap across the masking with a card or other stiff-flat object.

 Peel masking off slowly and at an angle.

If painting your squares, use an Xacto knife to cut out squares from the template you downloaded.  Center and tape template in place over your board.

Using your sponge and craft paint, dab paint over open squares.  TIP: don't put too much paint on sponge or it can seep under template easily.


-Part 5- 


Mark center of board, about 1" down from the top and drill a hole with your 1/4" bit.  TIP: To prevent tear-out, clamp your board to scrap wood behind the area you'll be drilling.


-Part 6- 


Using a fine-bristled brush, brush your preferred clearcoat over board in a thin coat.  Let dry; sand with 320 or 400 grit paper; add another coat.


-Part 7- 


 Fold your leather cord in half and stick the fold through the hole, starting from the back to the front.  Pull cord ends through the loop and pull tight.  Thread your checker pieces on and tie a single knot where you want your checker pieces to rest.  Cut off excess cord.

Below are pictures and descriptions of

how I achieved different looks:
 Added wooden applique, used "General Finishes" Whitewash Stain,
wiped on brown glaze, brown vinyl squares

  Wood-burned design, used "General Finishes" Whitewash Stain,
painted black squares

 Wood-burned design, used "Minwax" Jacobean Stain,
painted 2 coats "General Finishes" Whitewash Stain over that
and sanded back down to stain, white vinyl squares

  Wood-burned design, used "Minwax" Jacobean Stain,
painted 2 coats "General Finishes" Whitewash Stain over that
and sanded back down to stain, black vinyl squares

   Wood-burned design, used "General Finishes" Gray Stain,
painted white squares, wiped brown glaze on

 Added wooden applique, used "General Finishes" Gray Stain,
painted black squares, distressed/antiqued board by sanding

Wood-burned design, used "General Finishes" Brown Mahogany Stain, rubbed thinned-creme paint over design (to stand out), painted blue squares

Wood-burned design, used "General Finishes" Brown Mahogany Stain, rubbed thinned-creme paint over design (to stand out), white vinyl squares


Coffee Table Refinish

I got this coffee table for $25 off of Craigslist!  It had a lot of wear on the edges and water damage spots on the top but I loved the look of it and had to get it.  We've had it for 3 months and I finally dragged it outside to work on.

Here she's all sanded and primed ready for paint!

Sand all surfaces
1st coat of paint
Sand with 220 grit
2nd coat of paint
Sanded & Distressed with 220 grit
1st coat of Ceramithane Clear Coat
Sanded with 550 grit
2nd coat of Ceramithane Clear Coat

It took me probably 7 hours to complete over 2 days and lots of messes to clean up... but the end result is worth it!

Cost: I already had everything but probably $25 for the products.

Let's hope the kids don't draw all over the top with their markers anytime soon or gouge it with scissors (that's wishful thinking)...